Choosing the Right Exfoliant for Your Skin

Under perfect conditions, our skin cells turnover on average every month or so, but that can be significantly impacted with changes in temperature, pollution, skin hydration, stress, sun exposure, and aging. Adding exfoliants to your skincare routine can help unclog pores, improve skin texture, reduce pigmentation, and leave skin feeling refreshed. But with all the options and noise in the skincare world, knowing which type of exfoliant to choose can feel fairly overwhelming.

What’s the difference between physical and chemical exfoliants?

Physical exfoliants have small pieces of either natural material (ground up fruit pits or walnut shells) or synthetic material (small beads) that physically sloughs off skin cells. These can be quite harsh if the pieces are too sharp or too large. Additionally, synthetic physical exfoliants, though smoother, are often made with small plastic beads that wind up in our water supply as microplastics‚—something to be avoided for environmental reasons. Instead of abrasive or environmentally damaging particles, look for exfoliating particles that are biodegradable. A Tandem Clinic favourite includes hydrated silica and jojoba esters. Another option for physical exfoliation is a linen washcloth.

Chemical exfoliants use acids to break the bonds between skin cells and can have a spicier sensation while applied to the skin. There are a few different types of acids, with multiple commonly seen names under each. Alpha Hydroxy Acids / AHAs are often found in a 5-10% strength and include products like mandolin acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid. AHA are water-soluble and can be used to loosen the upper layers of skin, making them useful for dry skin with discolouration and skin tone concerns. Beta Hydroxy Acids / BHA are found in lower percentages, often ranging from 2-5%, and include products like salicylic acid and azelaic acid. BHAs are fat-soluble, allowing them to penetrate more deeply than AHAs, making them useful for acne-prone or oily skin with blemish or congested pore concerns. For individuals with skin too sensitive for either AHA or BHA products, Poly Hydroxy Acids / PHAs may be a more suitable option because of their larger molecular size and therefore reduced penetration into the skin. 

Is more exfoliation better? 

Both physical and chemical exfoliants can be helpful for overall skin health, but knowing the correct products to use and the frequency to use them is essential. Over exfoliating can impact our skin’s natural lipid barrier, leaving skin irritated, red, inflamed, and potentially more acne-prone by increasing oil production.

Always start with small areas to test out new products, begin with lower strength and infrequent usage—once a week is generally enough. For chemical exfoliants, the sensation while applied will depend on the percentage and pH—higher percentage and lower pH will cause a more intense sensation and likely should not be left on as long. After exfoliation, ensure you are using a good moisturizer, hydration support, and always always always, sun protection.

When in doubt, speak with a skincare professional to determine what type of exfoliant is best for your skin, frequency of use, and any other products or treatments that could help you reach your skincare goals.

Begin your skincare journey at Tandem with a Gua Sha Facial & Body Acupuncture treatment.